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Chronic Horse Laminitis - The Road Back to Health


Do you worry every time you see your horse eating green grass? Do you include checking digital pulses in your daily routine? Do you have nightmares about the only farrier who knows how to trim your horse moving to another state? The list could go on and on in the life of the owner of a horse affected with chronic laminitis. Even with good holistic treatment, relapses can and do happen. In this article I would like to address what conditions may bring a horse from health to chronic disease, and what it takes to reverse the process. These conditions apply to all horses with chronic disease and not just those with laminitis.

Basic Constitutional Makeup
Animals are born with a basic constitutional make-up which determines their overall strength and vitality. This constitution is inherited from the parents and not easily influenced after birth. The best way to produce horses with strong constitutions is to breed only healthy, strong, emotionally stable individuals. Unfortunately, this is not usually what breeding animals are selected for. So, from the very beginning, most horses have some level of weakness in their constitutions. Where and when these weaknesses will surface depends on the way the horse is managed. If a horse grows up under natural conditions with minimal stress, then symptoms may not appear until late in life. If, however, the horse is brought out of his natural environment and put under stress, chronic disease symptoms can appear much earlier. Some other triggers of chronic disease, such as horse laminitis, include drugs, vaccinations and inadequate or inappropriate nutrition.

In my experience, homeopathy is the only healing modality strong enough to permanently change an animal's constitution. Classical homeopathy addresses underlying constitutional weaknesses and imbalances. Other management tools, such as diet, housing, hoof care, chiropractic care, and exercise, can support the healing process for chronic horse laminitis.

Let's assume your horse has just come through an episode of laminitis. He is currently walking well and his hooves are growing out nicely. What you want to be watching for are other subtle signs of chronic disease which could indicate that additional treatment is needed. These would include symptoms such as poor hair coat, eye discharge, change in temperament, stiffness, sensitivity to hot or cold weather or weather changes. Horse laminitis is often just one symptom of chronic disease.

If your horse is really free of chronic disease, you should be able to decrease supplements down to maintenance levels. If you continue to need therapeutic levels of supplements or many different supplements, then more work needs to be done on a constitutional level. A healthy horse showing no sign of chronic disease can also handle reasonable amounts of fresh grass and grains in the diet.

It is not unusual for chronic horse laminitis cases to maintain a low-level digital pulse. This indicates some continued inflammation associated with a continued healing response. If the pulse becomes strong or is associated with increased lameness, it could indicate a problem.

Managing Chronic Horse Laminitis Cases
If your horse is doing very well overall, I believe a good management plan would include the following elements.

Diet for Horse Laminitis
The best diet is simple, low in carbohydrates, and high in fiber Small amounts of equine senior feed is acceptable for some laminitic horses, while others do well on a small amount (8 ounces) of oats or barley. At the same time, some laminitic horses can not tolerate any grains. A probiotic/enzyme supplement like FasTrack or Simplexity Spectrabiotic supports the digestive function and limits the production of endotoxins. Simplexity animal algae provides a source of food-based vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. Small doses of antioxidants such as Q10 may be indicated. You should not need to give more than 60-120 mg a day of a good quality Q10 product like those produced by Simplexity, Nutramax Comal, or Thorne brands. Generic brands of Q10 may not be active.

Hoof Care for Horse Laminitis
I prefer to keep laminitic horses barefoot as long as possible. They must be trimmed regularly. If their toes are allowed to grow long or their heels allowed to get too high, then the normal mechanism of the hoof is impaired. Overly correcting angles on overdue hooves creates unnecessary discomfort for the horse and sets back his effort to establish new laminar attachments. Don't expect to be back riding too quickly. It takes close to a year to grow a new hoof.

Turn-Out Schedules for Horse Laminitis
Turn-out on lush grass should be approached cautiously. Many horse laminitis cases have hormone imbalances that affect their sugar metabolism. Fast-growing, lush grass is high in sugar. As your horse gets healthier he will be able to tolerate fresh grass. I suggest gradually increasing exposure to grass over several weeks and monitoring digital pulses. It is also best to avoid hay that has been heavily fertilized.

Drugs and Vaccinations and Horse Laminitis
It is best to avoid drugs and vaccinations in horses with a history of laminitis. If drugs or vaccines must be given, then it is important to watch the horse closely to determine if any chronic disease has been triggered.

A Final Note About Horse Laminitis
In closing, I want to say that cure is always my desired outcome with chronic horse laminitis cases. This would look like complete return to full function without need for continued treatments or expensive management practices. Sometimes it is simply not possible, especially with advanced pathology such as pituitary tumors or severe bone damage. With these cases, palliation with remedies, special hoof care and high levels of antioxidant nutritional or herbal supplements may be needed. Most cases, however, can be cured with good homeopathic prescribing and proper management. The challenge is staying alert to shifting symptom patterns and resisting the temptation to palliate with large doses of herbs or supplements. I know I have many cases I have brought through crises but not totally cured. In my experience, chronic horse laminitis cases are perhaps the most difficult to work with and they can be the most rewarding.

Madalyn Ward, DVM, is a recognized author and veterinarian in the field of holistic horse keeping. For free tips on horse health, horse personality types, and horse nutrition, plus one-stop shopping on holistic horse products, visit http://www.BuyHolisticHorse.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dr._Madalyn_Ward,_DVM

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The Types of Sports Injuries in Horses


When a horse has an injury the pain they feel can fall into three categories:

Inflammatory pain - inflammatory mediators increase pain sensitivity and can make to pain feel worse within 6 hours. Anti inflammatory medications can reduce pain due to this; however, the inflammatory response does play its part in assisting with recovery of some injuries.

Neuropathic pain - From a major trauma i.e. spinal column.

Somatic Pain - Pain associated with the skin, joints tissues etc. The tissues are packed with pain receptors (nociceptors).

Pain can cause muscles to spasm preventing movement of the area. This is not a good thing as muscles in spasm have a reduced blood supply (ischaemia) causing more pain. This cycle needs to be broken in order for pain to be relieved. Unfortunately it can be difficult to assess pain in newly injured horses as the adrenaline released can mask pain and can sometimes cause the horse to do more damage to itself as a result of not realizing its injuries.

Assessment, diagnosis and stabilization of an injured horse needs to be done quickly and thoroughly in order for the correct decisions relating to treatment, safety and care to be undertaken. Can you determine exactly what the injury is?

Is it tendon / ligament / bone injury? - Take care not to worsen any injury. Correct application of a splint or suitable bandage to stabilize the area can prevent further injury and assist in a speedy recovery.

Has the horse 'tied up' (Exertional Rhabdomyolysis)? - The horse should not be make to walk and should be kept warm.

Is there a bleeding wound? - Every effort should be taken to stem the bleeding.
Is the horse in a dangerous situation? - Horses when trapped or caught in e.g. a fence are unpredictable and extra help should be sought.

Is the horse recumbent? - Why? Is he physically stuck? Exhausted? Neurological Trauma? Collapse? Winded itself? The reason for being recumbent will determine the cause of action to take. The horse should have its breathing and heart rate monitored if possible throughout the time it is down to closely watch stress levels etc.

Common sense is vital in situations when panic, whether horse or rider can occur.

Simple things can often get overlooked; like deciding on which way to travel your horse dependent on which leg they have injured can make a big difference to the comfort of the horse. Scared horses can often influence the way we care for them as we want to help as soon as we can. We still need to ensure the surrounding situation is safe before restraint of the horse and treatment can begin, to ensure that the horse does not injure themselves further or we ourselves get into difficulty.

Tammy is a avid horse rider who tries to advertise the correct ways to be looking after horses. Tammy works part time for anythingequine.co.uk who specialize in bridles as well as horse riding hats and safety helmets for equestrian use in the UK.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tammy_Patterson

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Horse Riding Games - Building Up Motivation


Horse riding games are terribly helpful tools in helping student riders learn more by building up inducement. As with the other kinds of learning, games foster play, which increases motivation. Incentive encourages students to engage in the act of gaining knowledge.

Horse riding games are being employed by many instructors to motivate their scholars to engage more in learning. Motivation increases when the student riders play a game because games foster play. Play builds up inducement, which supports the educational process by providing incentive. With motivations, scholars are encouraged to engage in learning.Horse riding games are to be employed by many instructors to motivate their scholars to engage more in learning. Incentive increases when the student riders play a game because games foster play. Play builds up inducement, which supports the training process by providing motivation. With motivations, scholars are encouraged to engage in learning.

This basically means the more scholars are having a great time with the lessons the more they gain knowledge. , it's important to integrate play in studying. Horse riding lessons can also be incorporated with horse riding games.

The following are examples of horse riding games.

Musical Horses
This game is played just like musical chairs. However, instead of chairs, ground poles are used. The ground poles will be placed parallel to each other, about eight feet apart. This will create what will look like a "parking lot" for horses. Just ensure that there is one less ground pole parking lot than the quantity of players.

Step 1. The riders will ride on the rail to music and must do whatever is asked for - walk, trot, canter, halt, half circle, reverse or circle.

When the music stops, the riders will go to one of the ground pole parking lots while continuously walking or running or cantering, etc.

Since the ground pole parking lots are one less than the riders, one rider will be thrown out. The quantity of ground pole parking lots will be equal to the number of riders, so one pole will be taken away before the game starts again. By taking one ground pole, the amount of ground pole parking lots will be one less than the amount of riders. This game is played by older riders who can mount from the ground and small riders with mounting blocks, who will be twinned with the older riders. Commands are asked of the older riders on the rail.

When the teacher claims "halt" [*SCO], the older rider will stop on the rail. They can dismount while the young riders run from the center to their partners. The older riders will get the tiny riders on safely and then the younger riders will race back to the mounting block. The last team to get to the mounting block will be out.

The younger riders will then start their riding commands. When the teacher claims "halt" [*SCO], the older riders will run to the younger riders who will be dismounting. The older riders will mount, while the younger riders will run back to the mounting block. The older riders will now be riding with no stirrups or in jockey style in small kids’ ; stirrups.

The game will continue till only one team is left.

In horse riding games, riders are engaged in synthetic conflicts that are designed by rules. This results for the riders to develop their strategic ability to gain the common goal. Horse riding games also promotes interaction between riders.

Author Lisa Brooks Blackstone owns and operates Arabian horse training and breeding business. Having grown up with horses, she knows the inherent benefits that emerge from an involvement with horses. To learn more about horse riding, please visit Horse Camps and Learn to Ride a Horse.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mario_W_Bandido

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Basic Ground Work For Horses - For the Gentle & Wild Horse


If you wanna be a good horse trainer & rider you're gonna wanna start with basic ground work for your horses. My theory is whatever you do on the ground is what your gonna do in the saddle. Whatever you allow or teach your horse to do on the ground is what he's gonna do when you're in that saddle.

Start your basic ground work by desensitizing & sensitizing your horse.
Desensitizing your horse is basically taking the fear out of your horse. I like to think of it as finding the holes in my horse and filling them in so I wont have any issues. Kinda like checking your car tires to see if there are any leaks in them and filling them with air before you go on a long trip. Remember a horse isn't broke unless you can control his mind and handle every part of his body. Some horses will be more sensitive than others in different parts of their bodies. Its a matter of being patient taking your time to cater to each horses needs differently to get the results you want. What you are looking for with basic ground work is for relaxation in your horse. Getting him to relax and build a trust with you. Getting your horse to allow you to touch him, follow your body language and yield to pressure so that you become one with your horse.

You're gonna definitely need the right tools to start with. A rope halter with a 12foot lead line not a nylon halter because it allows your horse to lean on your hand and pull away from you easier and your horse can also break out of it. Next you need a handy stick long crop or whip & make your self a flag buy putting a plastic bag on the end of it. Introduce your horse to your equipment slowly but not too slow as if you are a predator, but be gentle. I like to let my horses smell my equipment then I gently rub them with it and take it away I call this approach and retreat. I do this on every part of their body. Face, legs, under the belly in between the legs etc...until they are so comfortable with it that the get bored. Anytime your horse gets a lil to frightened don't be afraid to stop for a brief moment then start again. Keep doing this until he understands what you're asking you'll know when he understands, when he stands still instead of trying to run from your equipment. Lastly your safety comes first and foremost, but I strongly encourage you to stick with your horse! Don't give up on him to soon. I see many people do this time and time again when there horse is having a problem and they never achieve anything. Remember you can always stop take a deep breath and then start again until you get what you want out of your horse. One last thing to remember is to know when to stop and call it a day. There is always tomorrow.

Successful Horse Training is based on the belief that you can build a balanced relationship with your horse using simple but assertive methods that result in gaining trust and respect from your horse. I consult and provide helpful information & resources to enhance your horsemanship.

Get the book on: Successful horse training Now!
Also visit me at Horse training made simple

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gary_Houston

Gary Houston - EzineArticles Expert Author

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A Horse's First Ride


After you have done all the necessary ground work to prepare a horse for riding. Don't make the mistake of thinking that you need to get on right away. Trust me you can wreck everything real quick and have to start all over again depending on the horse. Actually the more ground work you do with the saddle on the easier it will be to get on successfully in the long run. I've heard old guys say aww cowboy go on and get on. Nope not me I'll wait and take my time with my horse I'll get on when I think he's ready not when I think I'm ready. Preparation is the key, the more time you take the better. You'll know when your horse is ready because he'll tell with his body language. He wont be skittish or nervous he be standing still with his hind leg in a relaxed position like there's not a care in the world with both ears and eyes on you.

When you decide your horse is ready make sure he's standing square so you don't cause him to be out of balance when getting on. Again make preparation stick one foot in the stirrup on the left side an then take it out ( watch your horse) Stick your foot in again a lil bit longer this time and see how your horse reacts if he's standing still the rub him to let him know great job. Stick your foot back in this time and bounce on one foot putting a little weight in the stirrup 1...2...3...4... like you're about to climb up then stop... wait a couple of seconds and do it again. Remember don't preceded further with an exercise if your horse is not showing you that he is relaxed, every horse is gonna be different. Next put your foot in the stirrup bounce then stand in the stirrup for about 5 seconds then step down repeat this with each time standing a little longer. When he's relaxed with this exercise then move on. This time when you stand in the stirrup lean gently over the saddle and rub him on the shoulder, neck and back to the hindquarters then step down and repeat the steps again. Now go to the right side of your horse and to all the exercises again. What you do on one side you have to do it on the other.

Once you have done this ground preparation and you feel your horse is relaxed and comfortable with all the exercises then I think its safe to say you can get on.
I will give more details in my next segment.

Horse traning made simple is based on the belief that you can build a balanced relationship with your horse using simple but assertive methods that result in gaining trust and respect from your horse. I consult and provide helpful information & resources to enhance your horsemanship.

Get the book: Successful horse training
Also visit me at: Horse Training made simple

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gary_Houston

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Horse Snaffle Bit - Training Your Horse With This Type of Bit


The snaffle bit is the training bit of choice when it comes to true horsemanship. To be honest you can use this bit for the rest of your horse's life. It can be used not only for training, but performance horse events, trail riding showing, etc.... This is the first bit I pick up when it comes to horse training.

The design is really simple, its a mouth piece usually jointed in the middle and connected by two rings. Each side of the bit works works independently mostly on the corners of a horses mouth. It allows your horse to follow a simple and direct feel from the reins. It has a one to one ratio meaning that one pound of pressure in your hands equals one pound of pressure being applied to your horses mouth. Unlike a 7 inch shank bit with a 7 to one ratio you'd be applying 7 pounds of pressure to you horse's mouth, unless you know what you doing. To ride with something like that your hands must be very light & you must be very experienced.

So basically you don't need anything other than a snaffle unless you are an experienced horseman. With a snaffle bit I like to use a half inch leather curb strap, not a curb chain. The strap is the to prevent pulling the bit through the horses mouth. It is also less severe than a curbed chain I actually never use a curb chain on any of my horses. I always use leather, I just think that leather is more natural and more comfortable to my horses.

Successful Horse Training is based on the belief that you can build a balanced relationship with your horse using simple but assertive methods that result in gaining trust and respect from your horse. I consult and provide helpful information & resources to enhance your horsemanship.

Get the Book: Successful horse training Today!

Also visit me at Horse training made simple.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gary_Houston

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How to Train a Yearling Horse For Horseback


Most people have no idea how to train a yearling horse or what to do with them. So they just practice getting them haltered maybe pick up the feet and then turn them out in pasture until they are 2 or 3 years old, then begin training. Well I look at that time in between as time wasted.

There are many things you can do such as teaching your yearling god basics on the ground. Though don't make things into a big training session because a yearling is still young has to have time to develop physically and their attention span is usually a lil short. So I suggest working on the little things. Work him in the halter rope and ask him to bend and flex his neck, teach him to yield to pressure form the lead rope. Rub them all over in the stall or out in the open to get them comfortable with being handled.

Also while in the stall, round pen or small area introduce your yearling to some equipment that he'll have to wear in the next year or so. Introduce him to the saddle blanket and saddle pad. Rub it all over his body head, neck, back and hind quarters. Handle his legs and feet a lot he'll need to be able to stand still an be handled at trimming time. Another good exercise is teaching him to ground tie. Place the lead rope on the ground under his neck and step back 2 or 3ft if he moves back him up a couple of steps the ground tie him again until he stands still and honors that rope on the ground. Also begin some trailer loading with him. Use some small obstacles outside for your yearling to walk over & jump over.

Use tarps, poles, I also like to use a makeshift 6'wooden bridge to walk over. I also like to teach my yearlings to walk through water especially when it rains. Teach your horse to lunge. Expose your yearling to all sorts of things use your imagination be creative. By the time your horse reaches two years old and its time to start riding he'll be well prepared and you'll sure be glad because it will make starting your horse under saddle so much easier and when your start riding those thing learned on the ground will relate to the saddle.

Successful Horse Training is based on the belief that you can build a balanced relationship with your horse using simple but assertive methods that result in gaining trust and respect from your horse. I consult and provide helpful information & resources to enhance your horsemanship.

Get the Book: Successful horse training Today!

Also visit me at Horse training made simple.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gary_Houston

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